Králický Sněžník and Jeseníky

Autumn trip between lockdowns.



10/10/20204 min read

The weather forecast is to be relatively warm for the weekend, prime minister reports an early lockdown, so we quickly head out to enjoy the beautiful colorful autumn. The choice falls on the crossing of Kralické Sněžník and Jeseníky - hopefully there won't be crowds there.

Early in the morning we leave for Hanušovice, where we plan to leave the car and take a bus. To be more precise, to the Red Stream. And it wouldn't be a traditional start to the trip if something didn't go wrong. This time, black Peter was chosen by Honza's cap, which decided to ride the bus to the end and back. It didn't take long to find out that the cap continued on and we were standing at a stop. Fortunately, there is only one line from Hanušovice to Králík, and it's always the same bus, so Honza stopped the bus on the way back and an hour later found the cap lying on the seat.

Then we could leave in peace. Since the red ridge marker starts in Králíky and we wanted to shorten it, we set off around the bunkers, through the field and across the meadow to make it more straight. The route then climbs up to the Klepáč observation tower, which is closed due to poor condition. The ridge line then continues with another ascent through Hleďseb and the border Skály to Malý Sněžník.

The higher we got, the more there were remnants of snow and water flowing through the middle of the footpath. The path sometimes disappeared completely, because each track led somewhere else and often ended in the middle of thickets of knees and returned back. With soaked boots, we scrambled up to the top of Sněžník shortly before sunset, but since we still needed to go down somewhere to sleep, we didn't stay too long at the top and headed in the direction of Adélin spring, where there was supposed to be a shelter suitable for sleeping.

We got there already in the dark and found that the shed is nice, but there is a nice pond inside. Probably as a lot of water fell, the spring flowed more and it sometimes gushed out of the trough and regularly spilled onto the floor. Even the "attic" was not habitable, so we set off a little further to the saddle of Gleboka Jama, where we pitched a tent, cooked dinner and went sleep.

On the second day, we set off from the saddle along the green markings, leading exactly along the border, over Hraniční hora to Chlupenkovec, then past the Alois spring to Medvědí hut and up to the Paprsek ski area. They had an open restaurant kiosk at the hut, so after our own lunch we put some hot grog on top and it immediately felt better. Along the way, we turned back onto the border road and reached Smrk. There was a nice swamp at the top and you could only walk on islands of grass and roots. It didn't do much to dry my soaked shoes from the day before.

In addition, my achilles were getting sore, and the way from the mines to Ramzová was more of a slog than a walk. The plan was to walk all the way to the Giant Stone shelter, but they were far away and it was slowly getting dark, so we set up camp in the cow pen at the top of the slope above Ramzová. We cooked a warm dinner and then Honza read a book to me for a while before I fell asleep.

It was rainy in the morning, so we stayed a little longer in the tent. I wasn't very well in the morning (probably corona or I don't know) and I didn't want to get out of bed at all. Down in Ramzová, we took a break to collect water and make tea in the shelter, where we thought we would sleep (we could, there was enough space on the benches), but it is close to the main road and crowds of tourists walk around. Well, simply ideal for brushing our teeth, at least we indulged in a bit of culture.

And we climb the hill again, Vražedný stream, after it the murderous hill, Giant rocks, Šerák (also with a restaurant open kiosk) and still up to Keprník, where it just starts to descend a little again. The fog and clouds sometimes spread out, but otherwise the views are not great, until at the Vřesová stream they cleared a little and offered views of the valley.

We go down to Červenohorské saddle and figure out where to spend the night. It's getting dark. Thanks to the time shift an hour earlier and you can tell. We checked out the shelter under Klínovec, so hopefully it won't be full when it's Saturday. On the slope in the saddle, we stop at the trapping nets for ringing birds while it is still light, and then we get below Klínovec in the dark. On the way, we also met a cabin, which should also be accessible for sleeping, but someone was already there.

Fortunately, our selected shelter was empty, so we occupied a place nicely under the roof. After a while, another couple followed us, and then another, but luckily they had tents. Time for evening reading and snores again.

During the night, the fog fell and by morning we had pretty wet sleeping bags, so mainly me. Only the rising sun drove us outside. We continued along the ridge through Malý Jezerník, where there are peat bogs and wooden paths, to Švýcárna. From there it's only a short walk to Praděd, which we managed to reach just before the crowds started to gather.

We had a quick soup and then weaved our way through crowds of people on Ovčárna and up to Peter's stones. It is said that witches met there at the end of the 17th century and were subsequently burnt in the towns in the foothills. Honza's habit of reading books about places where they are so clearly determined what will be read this time - Hammer of the Witch (I slept through a good part of it).

From Peter's stones, we then continued through Vysoka hole to Jelení stream. It would also be great to sleep in the loft there, but it was only early afternoon and we wanted to walk all the way down to Skřítek and take the bus back to Hanušovice and go home.